Introduction
Nova Kool's refrigeration
systems are designed to run efficiently from AC Shore Power, Battery Power, or Solar
Electric Power.
The refrigerator door is shipped right hinged. This can easily be changed by removing
the door pins and latch pin and re-installing them on the opposite hinge bracket. The
decorative panel can be easily changed to match the interior of the boat.
The unit is charged with a CFC free R134A. This refrigerant is a Zero Ozone Depleter.
Our unit features a reciprocating compressor which is very efficient; while running it
uses less than 60 watt hrs. / hr.
All our refrigerators and freezers have built in battery protection. This feature is
designed to help protect the battery from damage due to accidental Deep discharge.
Operation
Our units are easy to
operate. We use one thermostat, whether you have a single door or two-door model.
This thermostat is a full range thermostat that will maintain your unit at the
temperature you desire. Turning the control all the way to the right (clockwise) will give
you the coldest position, and turning to the left will give you a warmer temperature in
the fridge. The control is also an on/off switch when you turn it to the "O"
position (hard left).
A good setting to start with is #2.
Defrosting
The frequency of defrost depends on the usage, (door openings) and ambient (outside)
temperatures. It is time to defrost when the refrigerator builds up 1/4 inch of ice on
each side of the cold plates.
The best way to defrost the refrigerator is to remove all the food, and place a towel
inside the fridge, on the bottom of the cabinet (s). Turn the thermostat to the
"O" position.
Never use a knife to scrape ice from the cold plate. This will rupture the cold
plate and let the refrigerant escape.
Cleaning
The best time to clean the
fridge is after a defrost. Wipe the inside clean using a non abrasive cleaner (watered
down) for the hard to clean stains. We recommend baking soda as the first choice for a
cleaner.
If you notice your refrigerator running longer than normal, clean the condenser
(usually required every few years).
The condenser is located
behind the refrigerator and can be cleaned by using a bottle brush and brushing vertically
from top to bottom on the face of the condenser. An alternative method is to vacuum the
condenser.
Condenser at back of fridge
Ventilation
All refrigerators, regardless of the make, are heat-transfer machines.
They transfer the heat from the inside of the fridge to the outside of the fridge. If
adequate ventilation is provided, the compressor will operate more efficiently, and use
less power.
The minimum total area required for ventilation openings depends on the size of
the fridge. All single door Nova Kool's require 60 square inches of total
ventilation area. It is recommended that the vents are located at the bottom (30 square
inches) and the top of the fridge (30 square inches); this supports the natural convection
of heat from cold (bottom) to warm (top).
On our double door models, 120 square inches is required (60 at the top and 60 at the
bottom).
The cold air intake at the bottom of the fridge can be from the left or the right side,
and if possible should be at a level below the fridge.
The warm air opening at the top of the refrigerator should be above the fridge if
possible.
All openings can be of any configuration (long and narrow , square or round) as long as
the 60 or 120 square inches is cut out.
If you are using grills, take into account the restriction they will give, and adjust
the opening accordingly.
.
Electrical Hook up
To determine the size of the wire to be used, measure the maximum length of wire to
connect one of the leads from the electronic unit (on the back of the refrigerator) to the
battery. Using the chart below, size your wire accordingly. The table is based on a 3%
voltage drop.
| wire size |
max. lead length in feet** |
| AWG |
12VDC units |
24VDC units |
| 14 |
8 |
16 |
| 12 |
12 |
25 |
| 10 |
25 |
50 |
| 8 |
40 |
80 |
** Length is the distance between the electronic unit and the
battery
The circuit breaker must be a 20 amp capacity on the DC side and a 5 amp capacity on the
(optional) AC side. Failure to size the wire or breaker correctly (too small) may cause a
premature shut down of the refrigerator by the Battery Protection Device.
Dual Voltage Electrical Hookup
15 Amp
Fuse must be Field Wired for 12 volt.
7.5 Amp Fuse must be Field Wired for 24 volt
DC Only Electrical Hookup
15 Amp
Fuse must be Field Wired for 12 volt.
7.5 Amp Fuse must be Field Wired for 24 volt
FUSES
We recommend that the
refrigerator have its own circuit, without any other appliances connected to the same
wires.
Using the COMMON BUS for the refrigerator wiring can sometimes cause radio frequency
noise and interference.
Nova Kool
recommends the use of a 15 Amp Fuse (12 VAC) and a 7.5 Amp Fuse (24 VDC) as near as
possible to the DC Source.
On the optional AC power supply a 4 amp (110 volt) or a 2 amp (220 volt) glass fuse,
can be found under the black fuse holder cap on the power supply.
Power supply for AC/DC Refrigerators
Wiring
diagram for DC only Refrigerators
1 - Electronic Unit
2 - Battery
3 - Main switch (optional)
5 - Fan (optional)
6 - Thermostat
7 - Resistor for pre-setting speed
8 - Resistor for pre-setting battery protection
voltage (optional)
9 - Fuse (Field Installed)
10 - Terminal Block
11 - Light (optional)
12 - Door Switch (optional)
Standard battery protection settings
|
- 12 V cut-out
- V
- 10.4
|
- 12 V cut-in
- V
- 11.7
|
- 24 V cut-out
- V
- 22.8
|
- 24 V cut-in
- V
- 24.2
|
Trouble-Shooting Guide
| |
|
YES |
NO |
| 1 |
Turn power on and turn thermostat to "7"
position |
Go to #2 |
|
| 2 |
Is the compressor running? (put your hand on top to feel
slight vibration to be sure). |
Go to #14 |
Go to #3 |
| 3 |
DC Breaker is in the "on" position &
optional fuse is good? |
Go to #5 |
Go to #4 |
| 4 |
Replace fuse or turn breaker "on". Does fuse
or breaker blow? |
Go to #6 |
Go to #5 |
| 5 |
Check voltage at the refrigerator "+" &
"-" terminals on the black module. Is it over 12 VDC? |
Go to #7 |
Go to #6 - (Go to 17 on
AC/DC models) |
| 6 |
Check batteries, wiring and connections to the
refrigerator for fault, corrosion, proper wire sizing and correct the problem. |
Go to #1 |
|
| 7 |
Put a jumper wire between terminals "C" &
"T". Is the compressor running now? |
Go to #11 |
Go to #8 |
| 8 |
Disconnect power. Remove electronic module (phillips
screw beside terminal designation label will require removal). Disconnect the plug.
Measure resistance (ohms) between each of the three compressor terminal pins. Is the
measured resistance APPROXIMATELY the same? |
Go to #9 |
Go to #10 |
| 9 |
Replace Electronic Module. |
Go to #1 |
|
| 10 |
Have compressor replaced by qualified appliance
technician who has the ability to evacuate and recharge the system. This is seldom
necessary so please be sure and if possible contact Nova Kool for further instruction
beforehand. |
|
|
| 11 |
Check wiring to thermostat with ohm meter to ensure
there is continuity. (No broken or damaged wires or connectors). Is the wiring okay? |
Go to #13 |
Go to #12 |
| 12 |
Disconnect power. Repair or replace wiring as necessary |
Go to #1 |
|
| 13 |
Replace thermostat. |
Go to #1 |
|
| 14 |
Have refrigerator in a well ventilated area
(i.e.. on cabin
floor). After an hour is it refrigerating? |
Go to #15 |
Go to #16 |
| 15 |
Check that adequate ventilation has been provided. 60 sq. in.
for single door models and 120 sq. in. for 2-door models. See ventilation suggestion on
Page 3 of this manual. Add ventilation as required. |
|
|
| 16 |
Have a qualified appliance technician determine if there is a
refrigerant leak or a compressor with a mechanical problem. |
|
|
| |
FROM 17-24 APPLIES TO
AC/DC MODELS ONLY |
|
|
| 17 |
Switch DC breaker off and AC breaker on. Does the refrigerator
run? |
Go to #18 |
Go to #19 |
| 18 |
Turn DC breaker on and check DC voltage on Terminal Block
located on side of gray AC power supply. Is it above 12 VDC (or 24VDC)? |
Go to #24 |
Go to #6 |
| 19 |
Check fuse on gray AC power supply (4 amp 110V and 2 amp
220V). Is the fuse good? |
Go to #22 |
Go to #20 |
| 20 |
Remove power supply and determine if there are any indications
of a short circuit. If no, replace fuse. Does fuse blow again? |
Go to #24 |
Go to #21 |
| 21 |
Check DC voltage output of power supply at black module
terminals "+" & "-". Is it above 12 VDC (or 24 VDC)? |
Go to #18 |
Go to #24 |
| 22 |
Is 110V (or 220V) available at the AC plug? |
Go to #21 |
Go to #23 |
| 23 |
Check plug, wiring, breaker, shore power or genset for damage
or fault. Repair or replace as required. |
Go to #17 |
|
| 24 |
Replace gray AC power supply. |
|
|
Typical AC/DC Refrigerator Wiring
1
- Electronic Unit
2 - Battery
3 - Main switch (optional)
4 - Power Supply (optional)
5 - Fan (optional)
6 - Thermostat
7 - Resistor for pre-setting speed
8 - Resistor for pre-setting battery protection voltage (optional)
9 - Fuse
10 - Terminal Block
11 - Light (optional
12 - Door Switch (optional)
